Nothing makes a dapper man feel more assured in his skin than in a made-to-measure suit and a commanding tie. The ultimate luxury is in creating a statement outfit that announces the man to the world, which we don’t always do in Vancouver (but we should do more frequently). We photographed this week’s Knotwerk piece at the atelier of Joey Dimz at which I tied a vintage Zegna in a Tulip knot (created by Jelmer Pijnappel, and with a tutorial by Alex Krasny).
The Tulip knot is noted for its resemblance to the namesake flower. It is tied with the narrow end, so start with the wide end your left-hand side, with the end at the beltline. Bring the wide end to the centre and cross the little end to the left. Create a spiral on that side. Bring the little end around the back and create another spiral on the right. Cover the two spirals by wrapping the little end around the centre, then bring it over the top over the front loop. You will then bring the little end to your right, and around the back. You will notice a triangle has now formed to your right. Finish the knot by looping the little end around the front and through that triangle, up and over and tuck it under the rest your tie.
The final look is achieved by adjusting it, so loosen the two flaps on the front to create a three-dimensional look to the knot. The finished product is like at tulip. Do not tighten up the two flaps or the shadowy effect is gone. It looks far better with the two flaps a bit loose, and works well with both wider and skinnier ties. As you can anticipate, this isn’t a tie suited for business and would be better-suited to a holiday occasion or cocktail party, where it is sure to stand out as a conversation piece.
Speaking of conversation pieces, let’s talk about Joey Dimz and his quaint yet functional atelier. Located at the edge of Gastown and just before Crosstown in Vancouver, Joey Dimz’s process requires collaboration between both the client and the atelier from start to finish. Bespoke here truly means that every piece is customized and not just a matter of taking measurements (he does take twice as many as a conventional tailor), but also cutting and putting the final product together by hand to ensure the highest quality and the perfect fit for the discerning gentlemen.
He has access to an impressive catalogue of the finest in suit-making cloth, including Cerrutti 1881, Scabal, Cloth Dormeuil, Fratelli Italia di Delfino, Harris Tweed and Zegna. Every last piece is down to the client’s specifications, including buttons and finishes. In fact, Joey has exclusivity to Huddersfield Cloth – the fabric provider to the television series Kingsman and Downton Abbey. More than a matter of suit-making, it is making suits specific to each individual client which will include an expanded line including footwear and women’s wear.
Originally from the Philippines, Joey Dimz descends from many generations of tailors. When he arrived in Canada in 2003, he started his business modestly and from there grew it organically. His designs are now so sought-after that he not only works with Vancouver style icon Jason Sarai, but also with a number of institutional clients who covet his state-of-the-art designs.
Being Filipino myself, it was refreshing to discuss the crafting of a more formal traditional barong worn at Philippine events, and most recently as seen on Prime Minister Justin Trudeau on his latest visit to Manila.
Thank you to KJ at SIMScomm for assisting with this interview, Joey Dimz for sharing his world with us and hope that you look dapper this holiday season and well into 2016!
Tie carefully, yours in knotwerk,
To view additional #BTS photographs by Helen Siwak of the Joey Dimz Atelier – CLICK HERE